Mencari gelombang di pojok terpencil Indonesia
This is my fourth flight in 48 jam, I'm ready to arrive at Simeulue, a remote island in the Indonesian archipelago, floating in the Indian Ocean 150 km from the province of Aceh, Sumatra. It was a relief from the bedroom when the plane landed. Finally we get here!
A glance at the small Wings Air plane revealed an airport that was confusing and far larger than expected, and I just realized we hadn't arrived there at all. The pilot turned around because of the storm and we returned to Medan on land, our starting point.
Not an ideal start to making sure to leave, but the flight the next morning proceeded without a hitch. Many islands in Indonesia come with promises like Bali 30 last year.
Arrived at Simeulue Island
I came to Simeulue with my girlfriend and two friends, with the hope that this version of the dream is still alive and well, sustainable and we hope for the difficulty of access (which was confirmed by our inbound episode) plus Sharia law (without alcohol), as well as no bikinis and things that violate the sharia and so on).
The earthquake epicenter was powerful 9,3 in the year 2004 just a distance 40 km from the north end of the island and Simeulue was the first land hit by the tsunami. This may be a big event for the island of Simeulue, with population 82.000, suddenly become a global spotlight, due to tragic reasons. But while the Aceh coastline on the Sumatra mainland and many other Indian Ocean regions were destroyed by the tsunami – 170.000 Indonesians were killed only in Aceh – Simeulue even selamata miraculously, with only seven souls lost as a result of the tragedy.
After a comparable tsunami tragedy in the year 1907, the inhabitants of this island have bequeathed knowledge that if the sea suddenly retreats after an earthquake, screaming “be cared!” (Local dialect for tsunami) will rise, and everyone will run to the hill.
After the tsunami in the year 1907, the islanders have bequeathed that if the sea suddenly retreats after an earthquake, everyone must head for the hills.
When we arrived at Casarina – a beautiful homestay-cum-surf camp in the village of Nancala on the island's west coast, our host Rina assured us that there were no earthquakes, which we then learned the meaning of the last was six months ago.
Volatile plate tectonics are just a fact of life on Simeulue and, otherwise, enormous volatility has paid off for Simeulue, in the most consistent waveform. Earthquake of the year 2004 move many things around the seabed, create “The Peak”, aka the A-skeletal reef rest which is very consistent in the middle of a very beautiful stretch of beach where previously there was no stretch of beach.
Casarina occupies the main beachfront real estate right in front of The Peak, and we explore it every day for two weeks. Ultra-consistent waves have different patterns on certain days, depending on the subtleties of wave size, period and direction.
Perfectly located, Daily weather patterns are divided for windless morning and evening sessions, and a gentle breeze on the mainland, interspersed with occasional tropical storms that are only short-lived.
We explored the coastline further north, find several waves with varying quality, the best is the amazing beach which is home to some delightful sandy peaks. At the southern tip of the island, we meandered through a maze of small coral islands on the sampans of the local fisherman's outrigger, where we surfed long and agile which rumbled on a stretch of jagged reefs in a quiet bay.
Only exist 20 or more local surfers on Simeulue and many of them can be found via the Dylans route. There is an old yellow board, will take off 10 meters deeper than others, gliding over the swinging water, with a smile on his face, pulled in and stood straight when he flew through the water and ejected five seconds later, exclaimed like a madman.
Perfection on Dylans
With the majority of the Muslim population is Simeulue, every village around the island presents a mosque as its main part. The ornate roof formed a kaleidoscopic color patch as we explored the island. A call to pray at dusk marks the end of the day's surfing, when the sun sneaks into the Indian Ocean.
As happens everywhere on the surface of the earth, boys play soccer. Although cellphone signals are very minimal on most islands, and wifi is only available at Sinabang (“capital city” Simeulue), This Premier League is a big problem.
At least half of the players at Simeulue appear to be Liverpool fans, making the island the most remote Scouse fortress in the world. Girls mostly play volleyball, while little children will fly kites hundreds of feet in the sky with their fathers.
Simeulue is filled with wildlife. Buffalo, chicken, and goats roam freely throughout the island. Buffalo poop that rises on the road represents a real navigation hazard when using a bicycle. One day we went inland, climbing creeks through the rainforest, climbing a waterfall, and crossing rapids on slippery fallen trees. Our road is crossed by wild boar, an army of unique long-tailed apes and giant centipedes.
Sky Floss Candy
Fishermen use their best techniques in river mouths and in the open sea from brightly painted boats, while women patrol the coral reefs when the tide is collecting seaweed. We set out to explore the nearest uninhabited island on Mincau Island, just to meet an old man who emerged from the forest with a machete. Fortunately, he was just looking for coconuts.
“Of course this place is not a five-star surfing resort, but isn't natural at its core?”
Every day we reap a gift from this gift. Our host Rina is a traveling chef who has spent time throughout Asia. Speak five languages – Indonesian, English, Mandarin, Thailand, and Hindustani – His cooking is a hustle and bustle of flavors from across the region.
Our day will start with the breakfast of the champions at dawn – I quickly made sure that the banana pancakes were the best in the world. For our adventure today, he prepared a fancy lunch. For dinner, he will return from the market with Mahi Mahi, Wahoo or Fresh Tuna for BBQ. The intoxicating aroma and taste of Rendang is welcomed with great pleasure after a day in the water – simple fare but beautifully executed.
In connection with local traditional traditions, my girlfriend Tash asked to cover it on the beach or outside. And a grassy garden in Casarina, where he can sunbathe in a bikini as he pleases.
Our rooms – in a traditional Sumatran wooden cabin – clean and simple, equipped with a comfortable bed, fan, Indonesian traditional toilet (squat down) and bucket shower. We ate like a king, sleep tight every night and feel like a guest at Rina's house rather than a tourist on a surfing holiday.
Gardens in Casarina
When our time at Simeulue was almost over, we realize that we have got what we want, and many more. Lokasinya yang terpencil, akses yang sulit, dan gelombangnya adalah petualangan yang sesungguhnya – seperti G-Land atau Teluk Lagundri Nias yang berdekatan – telah membuat gelombang peselancar yang bepergian berhamburan di pulau ini.
Kami menemukan orang-orang yang hangat dan ramah yang tinggal di pulau yang indah. Benar saja, ketika kami tiba di bandara kecil pada hari terakhir kami, kami mengetahui bahwa, karena masalah teknis, pesawat tidak akan berangkat sampai keesokan paginya. Dismay malah berbalik senang ketika saya menyadari bahwa kami tidak akan berangkat dalam waktu cepat, ada waktu untuk mengikuti sesi malam di Dylans untuk sesi bonus untuk terakhir.
Catatan ini di terjemahkan dari tulisan asli Matt Carr untuk mpora.com